Hi, missed you! I’m in Los Angeles and just touching down after a month of back to back projects with new clients. Grateful to be booked and equally grateful to be back on my routine of hot yoga twice a week (sorry). I know exercise talk is so boring but this is who I am now.
I did something stupid and bought wedge flip flops recently. I know you know what I’m talking about. I’m in desperate need of a pedicure but I’ll let you know where we net out with these. I also swooned but did not buy (stupid) this OPI polish I came across called Kyoto Pearl.
Kyoto’s on my mind and lucky for you, I have a travel itinerary below with a few ideas for how to spend 48 hours in the city. If you like the same stuff as me (long walks, art, design, eating, shopping, and snooping in people’s homes), you will love! Let me know if you have spots to add, or if you end up trying anything here.
Day One
Check in. After a while knocking into everything in a traditional (and tiny) ryokan in the outskirts of Tokyo, we opted for a different experience this stop. The Ace Hotel Kyoto is centrally located near lots of shops, dining, and transit and had all the comforts you’d expect to find at any other major property in the Ace group—a Stumptown in the lobby, ATM, on-site restaurant, bar, bicycles on loan, etc.
The Shinmonzen designed by Tadao Ando, Maana Homes, or Hiiragiya may suit your needs if you’re going for more local accommodations.
First up—visit the Kawai Kanjiro home. Kanjiro is recognized as integral to Japan’s Mingei movement which kept folk art and craft alive during a period of rapid industrialization. The museum preserves the artist’s home and studio space as he lived in it and his many incredible works across ceramics, wooden furniture, sculpture, and calligraphy. A must see if you appreciate art, architecture or care to see how a wonderful artist lived.
Stop around the corner at Ichikawaya for egg sandos and coffee.
Next, make your way downhill back towards town and take a lazy walk along the Kamo River. Kamo means duck. It’s beautiful to take in the view of the mountains surrounding and to get a sense for the way nature sustains life in this city.
If you’re up for it, there are many good shops to be found surrounding the Ace like: Media Shop for books; Ryoen tea, the oldest tea shop in town since 1875; Babaghuri for homewares and clothes (there are towels I desperately regret not picking up from here); Rokujuan for mochi; Issey Miyake; and 45R. This is a great zone to get a little lost in and follow your curiosity.
By now you’ll be close to the hotel. Stop to drop any bags and freshen up for dinner. You’ll want to make reservations well in advance as popular places tend to book up and seating is limited.
For dinner, head to Berangkat or le14e. Berangkat is a small 6-seat counter offering small plates and southeast asian fusion food. No english menu so be open to that. Le 14e is a charming little french restaurant with good wine. We didn’t make it to either but both were high on my list so I need you to report back if you end up going and love!!!
End the night with drinks at Beatle Momo. The listening bar is run by long-time vinyl collector Momo who spins the whole night and takes requests. The cocktails are named after popular songs—I got the DREAM on some Fleetwood Mac shit. You’ll need to DM a few days in advance to hold a spot or pray for luck for the ood chance a table opens up.
If there’s a wait for your table, stop by Hachimonjiya a few doors down. This bar’s a little seedy but warmly welcomes characters of all kinds. You’ll sit and drink among artists, elders, students, intellectuals, world travelers and feel like you’re right where you need to be. Run by famous photographer Kai Fusayoshi, his lifetime of self-published photo books and works sit in stacks from floor to ceiling and pile up on every surface. We drank sake with beautiful strangers and looked at Kai’s portraits of all who have turned up over the years. The memory of this night fills me up when I think of it.
Float home warm and buzzing under the streetlights.
Day Two
Sleep in if you want! You can get breakfast (any kind you’d like) on the hotel’s rooftop.
Then head up to the foothills for a visit to Nunuka Life gallery and ceramics shop. This is a private home nestled in a bit more rural neighborhood so be sure to DM on instagram to schedule your visit in advance. The stoneware is perfectly imperfect and all handmade in Japan. Adam found a beautiful rustic bowl that we both swear is the best thing in our kitchen now.
Next, take a little stroll along the tree-lined Philosopher’s Path and listen to this. You’re welcome!!!!
Drop into Farmoon for lunch after. The kitchen is rustic and lived in and it opens right onto the dining room. It feels like being at a friend’s place. They use beautiful, seasonal ingredients in new ways. A real treat to eat here.
Take a rest if you need it. Then wander around the many textile, ceramics, and gift shops in the Gion district while zig zagging up the streets to reach the Kiyomizu-dera buddhist shrine. It is almost always busy but well worth the views. Especially if you can catch the sun setting over the valley.
Have ramen for dinner at Sugari.
Stop for a matcha ice cream if you’re fiending for something sweet before you turn in for the night.
Hope you enjoyed this or came away with a few ideas for spots you’d like to visit. This was Adam and I’s first time in Kyoto so this list is certainly not exhaustive.
Thank you to everyone who passed along recommendations.🤍 Thinking of pulling this together in a shared google map plus some of the sights we didn’t get to—let me know if that’d be helpful as a follow-up. Coming back with something special in the next one. Hope you’re taking good care.
Thank you so much for reading,
J